Saturday, February 13, 2010

Who you gonna believe? Walmart or Whole Foods?

“They do a lot of good things they don’t talk about” .... “It’s getting harder and harder to hate Walmart.”

Those are quotes in a wonderfully honest and objective report from my favorite food commentator, Corby Kummer.
Kummer takes a look at Walmart Supercenters selling organic and locally grown produce, and is impressed:
I had trouble believing I was in a Walmart. The very reasonable-looking produce, most of it loose and nicely organized, was in black plastic bins (as in British supermarkets, where the look is common; the idea is to make the colors pop). The first thing I saw, McIntosh apples, came from the same local orchard whose apples I’d just seen in the same bags at Whole Foods. The bunched beets were from Muranaka Farm, whose beets I often buy at other markets—but these looked much fresher.
And then he devises the following experiment:
Walmart holding its own against Whole Foods? This called for a blind tasting.
I conspired with my contrarian friend James McWilliams, an agricultural historian at Texas State University at San Marcos and the author of the new Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly. He enlisted his friends at Fino, a restaurant in Austin that pays special attention to where the food it serves comes from, as co-conspirators. I would buy two complete sets of ingredients, one at Walmart and the other at Whole Foods. The chef would prepare them as simply as possible, and serve two versions of each course, side by side on the same plate, to a group of local food experts invited to judge.

Read his essay on what that experiment revealed. 

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